
689 by Quorum: Where Pan-Asian Dreams Meet Delhi Reality There's something almost perverse about the way Delhi's private members' clubs have evolved. Once upon a time, they were musty affairs with leather armchairs, whisky-nursing uncles, and kitchens that believed Chinese food meant Gobi Manchurian. Now, they've become laboratories of culinary ambition, and none more so than 689 by Quorum. I'll confess: I approached this one with the wariness of a man who's been promised "authentic Pan-Asian" once too often. Pan-Asian, in Indian restaurant-speak, usually means someone's dumped soy sauce on everything and called it a day. But 689, tucked within The Quorum—that members-only sanctuary co-founded by banker-turned-hospitality maven Vivek Narain and his wife Sonya Jehan (yes, the granddaughter of the Noor Jehan)—turned out to be something rather different. The man orchestrating the kitchen is Chey Jayraj, and within minutes of meeting him, you realize he's not playing the usual Delhi game. This isn't fusion for fusion's sake. The restaurant spans Thai, Korean, and Japanese cuisines, but the real story lies in the techniques: teppanyaki, yes, but more interestingly, robatayaki—that ancient Japanese method of grilling over charcoal that most Indian restaurants wouldn't touch with a barge pole because it requires actual skill and patience. The Food That Mattered We began, as one should, with dimsums. The Chicken Black Fungus Gyoza arrived with that satisfying resistance-then-yield that separates real dumplings from the gummy imposters that plague most menus. But it was the baozis that caught my attention—specifically the Chashu Mushroom, where toasted star anise played against an assortment of mushrooms and torched brie. Torched brie in a bao. I know, I know. But here's the thing: it worked. The slight char, the funk of the cheese, the earthiness of the mushroom—it shouldn't have made sense, but it did. The robatayaki section delivered the evening's revelation: Flame-Kissed Avocado. This Hass avocado, brushed with soy-mirin glaze and dusted with shichimi, had that smoky intensity that only proper charcoal grilling delivers.
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