
Mamagoto had invited a small group for a dimsum masterclass, presided over by brand chef Siddharth and regional chef Vikas — a double act that, between them, seemed to have an opinion about the correct thickness of a dumpling wrapper that they were not shy about sharing. This, I should say, is my favourite kind of restaurant event. Tastings tell you what a kitchen can do; a masterclass tells you what it actually believes in, because nobody bothers explaining technique for a dish they don't care about. We began with the Tibetan Spicy Jhol Momo, which is, structurally speaking, a momo behaving like it has read too much about Sichuan cuisine and decided to have an existential crisis about it — a good one. The jhol, that thin, fiery, slightly tangy broth that Nepali and Tibetan kitchens ladle over their dumplings, is not something Delhi's momo carts bother with much anymore; most have surrendered entirely to mayonnaise. Chef Vikas was particular about the pleating — apparently a badly pleated momo lets the jhol in too early and turns the whole thing to mush — and watching a room full of amateurs (myself included) mangle our way through it was, I suspect, exactly the entertainment the chefs were hoping for. The Old School Veg Gyoza that followed was a deliberate exercise in restraint after the momo's theatrics — cabbage, a little ginger, nothing showing off, pan-fried to that particular crackle-on-the-bottom, soft-on-top finish that separates a good gyoza from a merely edible one. Chef Siddharth made the point, which I thought was a good one, that a menu this large needs at least a few dishes that aren't trying to impress you, if only so the ones that are trying to impress you have something to be impressive against. And then, the dish I suspect most of us had secretly been waiting for: Chicken and Water Chestnut Siu Mai. The water chestnut is doing quiet, important work here — that faint, almost audible crunch against the give of the minced chicken is what keeps a siu mai from collapsing into blandness, and it's a detail I don't see enough kitchens in this city bother with.
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