
The Soul in the Sauce: An Evening at Vinci I have eaten in enough restaurants to know that most of them are in the business of feeding people. A rare few are in the business of something else entirely — of making you feel, however briefly, that you have been let in on a secret. Vinci, tucked into DLF Emporio in Delhi, belongs to that rarer category. The name behind it will be familiar to anyone who has followed Delhi's restaurant scene with any seriousness. Prateek Gupta, the man who gave us Ristorante Dali, Cafe Dali, and Trattoria Hugo, has never been a chef who chases trends. He builds worlds. For Vinci, he has joined forces with Kapil and Sandy Khurana of Entertainment Design Company, and the partnership shows in every square foot of the space — 2,400 of them, to be precise, holding just 48 seats. That is not an accident. That is a decision. In a city where restaurants increasingly seem designed for turnover, Vinci has chosen intimacy over volume, and it is the better for it. The room itself has what I can only describe as quiet grandeur — nothing shouts, but everything is considered. This is design in service of feeling rather than design for its own sake, and it sets the tone for what follows. Because at Vinci, the philosophy is worn openly. The kitchen and the floor here seem to genuinely believe that a meal without care behind it is just calories — that a candle burning without purpose, a table set without a story, is a small tragedy. To host, in their reading, is to honour; to serve is to love. It could sound like marketing copy in lesser hands. Here, watching the servers move and having tasted what came out of the kitchen, I found myself believing it. We began, sensibly, with bread — a Woodfire Garlic Bread, smoked over open flame and served with a trio of butters and a basil pesto. It is a humble thing to lead with, but a kitchen that takes its bread seriously is usually a kitchen worth trusting for everything else. This one did not disappoint. The Truffle Fries that followed were, I confess, exactly what I wanted them to be — black truffle and parmesan doing their familiar, reliable magic, lifted by a scattering of chives.
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