
The Sandwich Republic of Meharchand Market When Dumbo Deli gets it right, it really gets it right! Let me be honest with you. I have visited enough delis — in London, in Singapore, and rather too many in Delhi — to have developed a certain wariness about the genre. The word "deli" has become dangerously elastic in this city, applied freely to everything from a convenience store with a panini press to a café that once saw a picture of a reuben on Pinterest and hasn't looked back. So when I found myself walking into Dumbo Deli in Meharchand Market on a recent afternoon, I carried, as always, the quiet armour of measured expectation. It was dismantled, fairly quickly, by a sandwich. But first, a word about the space — because at Dumbo, the space is very much part of the experience, whether you want it to be or not. It is small. I don't mean "intimate" in the way that estate agents use the word to make you feel better about a flat you couldn't swing a cat in. I mean genuinely compact, in the manner of the best sandwich shops the world over, where the emphasis is not on where you sit but on what you eat. Four green marble coffee tables are the sum total of your seating options, and on a busy afternoon — which is to say, most afternoons — you are unlikely to find even these available without a period of patient waiting. This is by design, I think. Dumbo Deli is not a restaurant. It is, in the truest sense, a deli counter experience: you walk in, you place your order at the counter, you pay, and you wait. It is closer in spirit to a great New York bodega than to anything you'd find on a brunch menu in Hauz Khas Village, and that, I would argue, is precisely its virtue. Now, to the matter of the Florentine sandwiches. These are the items that draw the queue — and there is always a queue — and they sell out with a speed that is, frankly, almost offensive. Within three hours of opening. I am told this with the practiced calm of staff who have watched too many hopeful faces arrive at the wrong hour and leave deflated. If you want one, plan accordingly. Come early, or accept your fate with grace. I came for the PARADISO, and the PARADISO is the reason
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