
A European Bistro Takes Flight in Aerocity There's something to be said about restaurants that don't try too hard. In an age when every new opening seems to come with a conceptual manifesto and a backstory involving foraging expeditions to remote Himalayan villages, it's refreshing to find a place that simply wants to serve good European food in pleasant surroundings without any pretense. Mesa Kitchen & Bar, tucked away in Worldmark 3 in Aerocity, is precisely that sort of establishment. The brainchild of Ranjit Gupta and overseen in the kitchen by Chef Hemant Bisht, Mesa doesn't announce itself with great fanfare. Instead, it quietly goes about the business of being a proper European bistro in a part of Delhi where such things are in surprisingly short supply. Now, I know what you're thinking. Aerocity? That soulless collection of hotels and convention centers? But hear me out. Sometimes the best restaurants are found in the most unlikely locations, and Mesa makes a compelling case for venturing into what is admittedly not Delhi's most atmospheric neighborhood. The Space The restaurant itself is one of those modern spaces that manages to be both stylish and comfortable—no mean feat in an era when most designers seem to confuse the two. There's outdoor seating if you're the sort who enjoys watching Aerocity's peculiar brand of urban bustle, but I'd recommend the indoor section, which offers a warm, inviting ambiance that's increasingly rare in Delhi's restaurant scene. What struck me most was how quiet it was. In a city where most restaurants seem to believe that good times can only be had at decibel levels that would alarm an audiologist, Mesa's restrained atmosphere comes as a blessed relief. You can actually have a conversation here without shouting. The Kitchen Chef Hemant Bisht has put together a menu that doesn't try to reinvent European cuisine but rather presents it with confidence and competence. The French Onion Soup arrives as it should—crowned with a gloriously melted cheese puff that you break through to reach the rich, deeply savory broth below. It's the sort of dish that reminds you why certain classics have endured for centuries.
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