
The Theatre of the Teppan - When dinner becomes a performance, and the chef is the lead actor. There is a peculiar kind of loneliness to eating in most fine dining restaurants in this country. You sit at your table, beautifully appointed as it may be, and somewhere behind a wall, in a kitchen you will never see, things happen to your food. A sauce is reduced. A protein is seared. A garnish is placed with tweezers. And then a plate arrives at your table, immaculate and composed, as if it had always existed in precisely that form — with no history, no drama, no human story attached to it. I have always found this slightly unsatisfying. Not the food, necessarily. The experience. Which is why I have such a deep fondness for Teppanyaki. It is, among all the Japanese culinary traditions to have found a home in India, the one that most completely refuses to hide its workings. There is no curtain here. No mystery. Instead, there is fire, and steel, and a chef who performs directly in front of you — a craftsman who cannot fake it, because you are watching every single move. I went, recently, to try the Teppanyaki experience at EEST — the pan-Asian restaurant at The Westin Gurgaon — and I came away thinking that this is precisely the kind of dining experience that Gurgaon, for all its ambition and appetite, has been quietly missing. A Word About the Style of Cooking, First Let me explain Teppanyaki for those who have encountered the word but remain uncertain about what it actually involves. The teppan is a large, flat iron griddle — a cooking surface of considerable heft and heat-retention. The yaki simply means grilled or pan-fried. In practice, Teppanyaki refers to a style of cooking developed in Japan in the mid-twentieth century — and subsequently elevated by restaurants like Benihana in America into something approaching theatrical spectacle — in which a skilled chef prepares your meal on this flat-top griddle, in your presence, at close quarters. The important thing to understand is that Teppanyaki, for all its showmanship, is not mere entertainment. The technique is disciplined and demanding.
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