
India in a Glass — and on a Plate Farzi Cafe's revamp at Cyberhub is ambitious, clever, and — mostly — rather good. Let me confess something at the outset. I have always had a complicated relationship with Farzi Cafe. When it first opened, I found it — as I suspect many serious diners did — rather too pleased with itself. The molecular gastronomy flourishes felt borrowed. The drama felt theatrical in the wrong way. And yet, every time I wrote it off, someone would drag me back, and I would find something genuinely worth admiring. A sauce here, a clever reworking of a classic there. Farzi, it seemed, was always in the process of becoming something better than what it currently was. The revamped avatar at Cyberhub, Gurugram, gave me reason to reconsider that ambivalence entirely. This is not a tweak. This is — in the truest sense of a word much abused by restaurant PR — a reinvention. A Nation, Distilled The first thing that arrests you — before you have even glanced at the food menu — is the cocktail programme. And I mean that as serious praise. In most Indian restaurants, the bar remains an afterthought. Something to keep you occupied while the kitchen staggers toward readiness. At the new Farzi, the bar is a statement of intent. The conceit is this: each cocktail is a city. Not in the lazy, Instagram-caption sense of the phrase, but with genuine rigour. The team has thought hard about what a city actually tastes like — its terroir, if you will — and then worked backwards into a glass. I began with the Chandigarh — The Sector Plan. It arrives looking deceptively simple: a pale, limpid thing, faintly golden. Mango lassi-washed tequila, saffron, cardamom, elderflower-scented soda. The name, of course, is a nod to Le Corbusier's famous grid, and whoever named this drink understood something that most cocktail bartenders don't: that Chandigarh is not a chaotic city. It is India's only planned city, and it wears that orderliness with a certain provincial pride. The cocktail delivers exactly what the name promises: clarity, structure, and a surprising lightness.
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