
When Gurugram Gets It Right There is a particular kind of restaurant that Gurugram does better than anywhere else in the country. Not the neighbourhood dhaba, not the heritage dining room, not even the white-tablecloth fine diner — but the ambitious, multi-cuisine, we-mean-serious-business destination that somehow manages to be a proper bar, a proper kitchen, and a proper experience all at once. Whisky Samba on Golf Course Road has been that restaurant for a while now. What I had not quite anticipated, on a recent Friday evening, was just how much better it had become. I should say upfront that the invitation came from Corporate Chef Ashwani Kumar Singh, whom I have known for some time. I know Ashwani well enough to understand what that glint in his eye means when he says he has something to show you. It means he has been working. It means the kitchen has been thinking. And it means you should arrive hungry. Start Where the Confidence Is One of the surest tests of a kitchen's self-assurance is what it does with the lighter end of the menu — the salads, the raw preparations, the dishes that cannot hide behind a sauce or a long braise. Whisky Samba's Salad and Raw Bar section passes that test emphatically, and I began there with the Pizzette, sampling two versions. The avocado one was exactly what it should be — clean, cool, with that yielding richness that avocado delivers when it is properly ripe and not refrigerated into submission. The salmon version was rather better, the fish carrying that gentle brine that only good salmon has, the kind that makes you pause mid-bite. These are deceptively simple preparations. Getting them right requires sourcing discipline and editorial restraint, and this kitchen has both. The Japanese Counter Whisky Samba has always done well by its Asian menu, but the sushi counter on this new menu is operating with noticeably greater intent. I tried two rolls. The Tempura Asparagus Roll — mame nori, tempura asparagus, orange miso, furikake — was a reminder that vegetarian sushi, done properly, need not apologise for itself. The orange miso brought a warm, almost caramelised sweetness that balanced the crunch of the asparagus.
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