
There is a door in Udyog Vihar that not everyone finds. That is, of course, entirely the point. Gurugram, as a rule, does not do understatement. It does loud. It does shiny. It does spectacle with the confidence of a city that has been making itself up as it goes along for the better part of three decades. Which is why, when you stumble upon a restaurant that announces itself with beige walls and a kind of tropical stillness — one that seems entirely unbothered by whether you notice it at all — you pay attention. The restaurant is called Kujaku. It means peacock in Japanese. And like a peacock, it does not come to you. It waits, in quiet, for the right eyes to find it. Itaria Meets Meshi The man behind Kujaku is restaurateur Robin Brar, who has brought to Gurugram a cuisine that most Indians are still making up their minds about. It is called Itameshi — a portmanteau of Itaria, which is how the Japanese say Italy, and meshi, which means rice or, more loosely, a meal. The concept, which has been popular in Japan since at least the 1980s, is simpler than it sounds and considerably more elegant than fusion cuisine deserves to be. Italian technique — the pasta, the risotto, the arancini, the long slow patience of a proper ragu — meets Japanese ingredients: miso, nori, soy, the briny depth of seafood, the clean heat of wasabi, the floral sharp brightness of yuzu. The chef making this work is Manan, and watching what he does, you begin to understand why the combination has persisted long enough to earn a name. Miso meets parmesan. Yuzu meets truffle. Wasabi meets basil. Two cuisines that, on paper, have no business together. Watch what happens when they do. The Room I want to say a word about the space, because it matters more than restaurants in this city usually allow. Kujaku does not shout. The beige walls hold the light rather than throwing it at you. There is a stillness here that feels designed rather than accidental — the kind of calm that good restaurateurs understand is itself a luxury. In a city of maximalists, the decision to do less is a considered act of courage. It is not loud. It is not obvious. It is, simply, waiting for you.
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