
When the Chef's Away, the Kitchen Will... Improvise There's a peculiar horror that only restaurant reviewers truly understand: walking into a dining room you've been personally invited to, only to discover that both the executive chef and the person who invited you have decided to take the day off. It's a bit like being asked to judge a fashion show where the designer has gone missing and the models are frantically trying to remember which outfit goes with which runway walk. This was precisely my experience at Lore, the new all-day dining restaurant on the first floor of Radisson Hotel Delhi MG Road, on February 5th. Now, I should clarify: this was my third visit to Lore, and my first two experiences had been quite good, honestly. The restaurant positions itself as a purveyor of world cuisine with the rather poetic tagline "Recipes Retold for Today." It's meant to be a culinary concept that draws from global traditions, regional histories, and time-honored recipes, all presented in a contemporary format. The menu is structured into thematic sections with names like "Indian Short Stories," "Scrolls from the Silk Road," and "The Final Chapter"—the sort of literary flourishes that suggest someone in the marketing department has been reading a bit too much magical realism. But on this particular afternoon, the only story being told was one of benign chaos. Executive Chef Kush Koli, whose menu this is, was on leave. Fair enough—even chefs need time off. The problem, as I quickly discovered, was that in his absence, nobody seemed entirely certain what the plan was. I was told there was a set menu, but what would actually appear on my table remained a delightful mystery. It was rather like being promised a surprise party where even the hosts weren't sure what the surprise would be. The meal began promisingly enough with Dahi Puchka Achari and Peshawari Mutton Seekh—the sort of Indian starters that are difficult to get seriously wrong. But then, almost immediately, the server arrived with the main courses. Now, I'm all for efficiency, but this felt less like pacing and more like panic. I had rather hoped to try a few more dishes before diving into the mains.
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