
Boya, Malcha Marg: When Delhi Finally Gets Nikkei Right There is a moment, in any great meal, when you stop thinking about the food and simply surrender to it. It doesn't happen often enough in Delhi — a city that, for all its enthusiasm about dining out, can sometimes confuse ambition with execution. Which is why, when it does happen, it's worth writing about. Boya, tucked into the quietly elegant stretch of Malcha Marg in Chanakyapuri, gave me one of those moments. Several of them, in fact. Let me give you some context first. Nikkei cuisine — the gastronomic language that emerged from the Japanese immigrant communities of Peru — is one of the most sophisticated and genuinely exciting food cultures on the planet. It is not fusion in the pejorative sense that Indian restaurant menus have made us dread. It is something far more considered: a conversation between two culinary traditions that have, over more than a century, learned to genuinely understand each other. Tokyo has its Nikkei temples. Lima has elevated it to a national art form. That Delhi now has a serious practitioner of this cuisine is, frankly, overdue. The man responsible is Chef Augusto Cabrera, a sushi chef of evident seriousness and skill. The restaurant's name — Boya, meaning "sowing the seed" — turns out to be rather more than marketing poetry. There is, in the food that comes out of this kitchen, a genuine sense of something being planted for the first time. A new culinary vocabulary being established, carefully, dish by dish. I visited for the All Day menu, which in lesser restaurants can be a diplomatic way of saying "we couldn't be bothered to think too hard." At Boya, it is nothing of the sort. We began with the Tomato Basil Soup — roasted tomatoes with basil — which I approached with the mild scepticism one reserves for dishes that seem deceptively simple. I was, happily, wrong to be sceptical. The roasting had done its work properly: concentrating the sweetness, deepening the umami, producing something that tasted unmistakably of tomato at its most essential. The basil was there as a presence, not a garnish.
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