
The South on a Banana Leaf: Why Cafe Athyeka is the Most Honest Thing to Happen to Delhi's Restaurant Scene in a While There is a question that has always quietly nagged at those of us who think about food seriously: why has Delhi, a city that has absorbed and domesticated cuisines from across the subcontinent with remarkable ease, never quite known what to do with the food of the South? We have, of course, had our South Indian restaurants. Sagar Ratna built an empire on the dosa. Saravana Bhavan arrived with its institutional efficiency and its impeccable sambars. The Udupi-style vegetarian café became, at some point in the nineties, as much a part of Delhi's culinary fabric as the dhaba or the Mughlai restaurant. But here is the honest truth: for most of Delhi, South Indian food has remained a comfort cuisine rather than a cuisine of aspiration. Something you eat when you want something light, something familiar, something reassuring. Not something you explore with the same intellectual curiosity that you might bring to, say, a Burmese meal or a Japanese omakase. Which is precisely why Cafe Athyeka, tucked into the civilised precincts of Meharchand Market in Lodhi Colony, feels like such a breath of fresh air. The café is the brainchild of Sheetal Saxena, and the first thing you notice — quite deliberately, one suspects — is that the word "authentic" appears nowhere in sight. Not on the menu, not in the décor, not in any of the framing language that surrounds the dining experience. This is not an accident. It is, in fact, one of the most intelligent curatorial decisions I have encountered in a new restaurant in some time. Sheetal has built something that is rare in this city: a restaurant that educates without lecturing, that takes pleasure seriously, and that has the confidence to know exactly what it is trying to do. The South has arrived in Lodhi Colony. And it has arrived rather magnificently.
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